Episode 304 (8/2)
Recap The designers create a look for Macy's...and one of them gets kicked off. Working in teams of three, the designers create an ensemble look for Macy's. The winning design will be sold as part of INC (International Concepts), Macy's largest private label brand. In a Project Runway first, one of the designers is sent home after being discovered breaking the rules. Tim breaks the news to the other designers the next day. Tim's Take Heidi announces that for this challenge, the designers will create a look for INC (International Concepts), Macy’s largest private label brand. Mehmet Tangoren, Vice President of Contemporary Sportswear for Macy’s -- and our guest judge -- provides details: This will be a three-piece look that embraces the broader concept of INC; that is, clothes for a fashion-forward woman who embraces the new. The designers are given 30 minutes to sketch and to prepare a presentation. Then, we’re off to Macy’s corporate offices where each designer presents to Mehmet and his team. They, in turn, choose the work of four designers who will serve as team leaders. Those four designers select two team members from the remaining designers. They are given 15 minutes to caucus as teams, and then we go shopping with a budget of $100. The teams are given two days for this challenge. The designers learn that the winning design will be put into production and sold in Macy’s largest stores nationwide. This opportunity is simply staggering. Mehmet will select the winning design, but his decision is not revealed until the next day when the two teams with the highest scores visit Macy’s and see the winning look in the window. Surprise!
Angela wins! And without a bubble skirt! Angela was the team leader, working with Laura and Michael.
And I don’t think anyone was more thrilled -- and surprised -- than Angela. But let me be blunt: There would have been no win for her had Laura and Michael not tamed the beast! The inspiration for Angela’s design was the Empire State Building, which she can see from her apartment. But after fabric shopping and patternmaking, it became clear that this Empire State Building was going to be covered in rosettes. Goodbye streamlined Art Deco! Hello exuberant Rococo! As team leader, Angela could have dug her heels in and resisted the input of Laura and Michael, but she had the wisdom to listen and collaborate, rather than dictate. In the end, the cropped jacket with the wide-legged pant and crisp top were stunning: Beautifully proportioned, stylish without being crazy, and very, very INC. Congratulations, Angela!
Bonnie is OUT.
Bonnie was the team leader, working with Bradley and Uli. Bonnie’s design concept consisted of a collarless wrap-coat over a cowl-neck tunic paired with a wide pant. Frankly, I became concerned when I saw the team’s fabric choices at MOOD, brown wool crepe -- gasp! -- being among them. And I developed a new dimension of concern while merely observing the dynamic among the team members: tense, doubtful, gloomy. Oh dear. Bonnie assigned the pants to Bradley and the cowl-neck cum turtleneck top to Uli. She, in turn, would execute the coat. My concern escalated as I saw these pieces develop, because there appeared to be no oversight being brought to align the overall silhouette and proportions. Bonnie’s design sketch was so compelling -- sleek, innovative, and youthful. So what happened when it was realized? Matronly. Flat. Dull. This look walked the runway with a THUD. Bonnie, we’ll seriously miss you.
Keith was the team leader working with Alison and Jeffrey. Keith’s design concept was for a slim pant and convertible tank under a robe-like coat. It was gorgeous and very modern.
He assigned the pant to Jeffrey and the tank to Alison. He would develop the coat. That is, he would have developed the coat had he stayed.* Keith was found in possession of fashion books, most notably a patternmaking book. Possession of these books is in strict violation of the Project Runway rules, so Keith was asked to leave. This occurred halfway through the challenge, so Alison and Jeffrey were seriously handicapped. But, they rallied and carried on! In fact, they carried on so well, that they were one of the two teams with the highest scores. Their three-piece look was a knock-out: The pant was sleek and innovative, the convertible tank (which I was concerned would be gimmicky) was very sexy, and the coat was a draping marvel. But when it was presented on the runway, I had to ask myself, “Is it too edgy for INC?” I believe it was.
Robert was team leader and worked with Kayne and Vincent. Robert draws like an angel, so there is always a seductive quality to his presentations. I am certain that Mehmet responded to this. At the same time, Robert’s design concept struck Mehmet as being compelling and suitable for the INC customer. So what went wrong in the translation? Something big. I loved the two-piece dress -- a navy skirt and matching top, the top having an oversized white collar. And I loved the sporty jacket with its drawstring closures. But I failed to understand how these pieces worked together. The dress was so dressy and the coat was so sporty; they were incongruous. Furthermore, when the dress walked the runway, the vent in the back of the skirt was exceedingly unflattering, even bordering on vulgar. This was a misstep for Robert. He would have benefited from listening to the cautions and direction offered by Kayne and Vincent. Robert, I’m just glad you’re still in.
*So, why was Keith asked to leave? He was asked to leave the show because he broke the rules of the show, egregiously broke the rules. Keith was found in possession of books related to fashion, most notably a patternmaking book. Possession of these books is in strict violation of the Project Runway rules. During their orientation upon arrival for the show, the designers are told what they can and cannot have in their possession. In response, they are to turn in these “cannot have” materials. Keith did not.
Some readers may be wondering, “What is a patternmaking book?” Books of this sort have visual diagrams showing how garments are constructed: skirts, pants, jackets, and every basic item of apparel. Patternmaking books are very helpful for fashion design students and home sewers with only a modicum of experience. What confounded me about Keith is that he does not need a book like this! He’s an exceptionally talented designer and he’s equally adept at construction. Why-oh-why-oh-why? All that I’m capable of speculating is that Keith harbored some deep-seated insecurities about his abilities and, therefore, the books were a kind of safety net. But I have no reason to believe that he ever used the books. Still, being in mere possession of them was serious enough.
Why are fashion-related books against the rules? They offer references and points of departure that the designers can borrow, thereby compromising the integrity of their designs. Imagine if these books were to be allowed and later we discover that so-and-so’s design for the “X” challenge was a copy of the Alexander McQueen dress on page 184 of “20th Century Fashion Design.” That would present a huge issue. (Please do not conflate this with Marla’s copycat incident last season. It was not against the rules for her to possess the photograph of the Chloe dress, because we gave it to her. It should have been against her better judgment to copy it!)
In addition, Keith left the production for a number of hours and, while missing, used the internet. Leaving the production and using the internet are also violations of the rules. Using the internet can constitute investigation and research, which is a way of accessing information to assist with a challenge. (Remember, we were only halfway through this challenge when Keith went AWOL.)
And please let me put some rampant speculation to rest. It seems that everyone now knows about the sketchbook in which Keith presents copies of the work of other fashion designers. Nina, Heidi, Michael and I all noted this when we reviewed the portfolios of the semi-finalists. Keith presented four to six sketchbooks and look-books (I can’t recall the exact number), and we assumed that this particular book was for inspiration. Fashion Designers have a responsibility to look at the design work around them. Many make notes or illustrations of the work that appeals to them. It’s not at all unusual. So, for us, that sketchbook was and continues to be a non-issue.
http://www.bravotv.com/Project_Runway/season/3/episode/4
Recap The designers create a look for Macy's...and one of them gets kicked off. Working in teams of three, the designers create an ensemble look for Macy's. The winning design will be sold as part of INC (International Concepts), Macy's largest private label brand. In a Project Runway first, one of the designers is sent home after being discovered breaking the rules. Tim breaks the news to the other designers the next day. Tim's Take Heidi announces that for this challenge, the designers will create a look for INC (International Concepts), Macy’s largest private label brand. Mehmet Tangoren, Vice President of Contemporary Sportswear for Macy’s -- and our guest judge -- provides details: This will be a three-piece look that embraces the broader concept of INC; that is, clothes for a fashion-forward woman who embraces the new. The designers are given 30 minutes to sketch and to prepare a presentation. Then, we’re off to Macy’s corporate offices where each designer presents to Mehmet and his team. They, in turn, choose the work of four designers who will serve as team leaders. Those four designers select two team members from the remaining designers. They are given 15 minutes to caucus as teams, and then we go shopping with a budget of $100. The teams are given two days for this challenge. The designers learn that the winning design will be put into production and sold in Macy’s largest stores nationwide. This opportunity is simply staggering. Mehmet will select the winning design, but his decision is not revealed until the next day when the two teams with the highest scores visit Macy’s and see the winning look in the window. Surprise!
Angela wins! And without a bubble skirt! Angela was the team leader, working with Laura and Michael.
And I don’t think anyone was more thrilled -- and surprised -- than Angela. But let me be blunt: There would have been no win for her had Laura and Michael not tamed the beast! The inspiration for Angela’s design was the Empire State Building, which she can see from her apartment. But after fabric shopping and patternmaking, it became clear that this Empire State Building was going to be covered in rosettes. Goodbye streamlined Art Deco! Hello exuberant Rococo! As team leader, Angela could have dug her heels in and resisted the input of Laura and Michael, but she had the wisdom to listen and collaborate, rather than dictate. In the end, the cropped jacket with the wide-legged pant and crisp top were stunning: Beautifully proportioned, stylish without being crazy, and very, very INC. Congratulations, Angela!
Bonnie is OUT.
Bonnie was the team leader, working with Bradley and Uli. Bonnie’s design concept consisted of a collarless wrap-coat over a cowl-neck tunic paired with a wide pant. Frankly, I became concerned when I saw the team’s fabric choices at MOOD, brown wool crepe -- gasp! -- being among them. And I developed a new dimension of concern while merely observing the dynamic among the team members: tense, doubtful, gloomy. Oh dear. Bonnie assigned the pants to Bradley and the cowl-neck cum turtleneck top to Uli. She, in turn, would execute the coat. My concern escalated as I saw these pieces develop, because there appeared to be no oversight being brought to align the overall silhouette and proportions. Bonnie’s design sketch was so compelling -- sleek, innovative, and youthful. So what happened when it was realized? Matronly. Flat. Dull. This look walked the runway with a THUD. Bonnie, we’ll seriously miss you.
Keith was the team leader working with Alison and Jeffrey. Keith’s design concept was for a slim pant and convertible tank under a robe-like coat. It was gorgeous and very modern.
He assigned the pant to Jeffrey and the tank to Alison. He would develop the coat. That is, he would have developed the coat had he stayed.* Keith was found in possession of fashion books, most notably a patternmaking book. Possession of these books is in strict violation of the Project Runway rules, so Keith was asked to leave. This occurred halfway through the challenge, so Alison and Jeffrey were seriously handicapped. But, they rallied and carried on! In fact, they carried on so well, that they were one of the two teams with the highest scores. Their three-piece look was a knock-out: The pant was sleek and innovative, the convertible tank (which I was concerned would be gimmicky) was very sexy, and the coat was a draping marvel. But when it was presented on the runway, I had to ask myself, “Is it too edgy for INC?” I believe it was.
Robert was team leader and worked with Kayne and Vincent. Robert draws like an angel, so there is always a seductive quality to his presentations. I am certain that Mehmet responded to this. At the same time, Robert’s design concept struck Mehmet as being compelling and suitable for the INC customer. So what went wrong in the translation? Something big. I loved the two-piece dress -- a navy skirt and matching top, the top having an oversized white collar. And I loved the sporty jacket with its drawstring closures. But I failed to understand how these pieces worked together. The dress was so dressy and the coat was so sporty; they were incongruous. Furthermore, when the dress walked the runway, the vent in the back of the skirt was exceedingly unflattering, even bordering on vulgar. This was a misstep for Robert. He would have benefited from listening to the cautions and direction offered by Kayne and Vincent. Robert, I’m just glad you’re still in.
*So, why was Keith asked to leave? He was asked to leave the show because he broke the rules of the show, egregiously broke the rules. Keith was found in possession of books related to fashion, most notably a patternmaking book. Possession of these books is in strict violation of the Project Runway rules. During their orientation upon arrival for the show, the designers are told what they can and cannot have in their possession. In response, they are to turn in these “cannot have” materials. Keith did not.
Some readers may be wondering, “What is a patternmaking book?” Books of this sort have visual diagrams showing how garments are constructed: skirts, pants, jackets, and every basic item of apparel. Patternmaking books are very helpful for fashion design students and home sewers with only a modicum of experience. What confounded me about Keith is that he does not need a book like this! He’s an exceptionally talented designer and he’s equally adept at construction. Why-oh-why-oh-why? All that I’m capable of speculating is that Keith harbored some deep-seated insecurities about his abilities and, therefore, the books were a kind of safety net. But I have no reason to believe that he ever used the books. Still, being in mere possession of them was serious enough.
Why are fashion-related books against the rules? They offer references and points of departure that the designers can borrow, thereby compromising the integrity of their designs. Imagine if these books were to be allowed and later we discover that so-and-so’s design for the “X” challenge was a copy of the Alexander McQueen dress on page 184 of “20th Century Fashion Design.” That would present a huge issue. (Please do not conflate this with Marla’s copycat incident last season. It was not against the rules for her to possess the photograph of the Chloe dress, because we gave it to her. It should have been against her better judgment to copy it!)
In addition, Keith left the production for a number of hours and, while missing, used the internet. Leaving the production and using the internet are also violations of the rules. Using the internet can constitute investigation and research, which is a way of accessing information to assist with a challenge. (Remember, we were only halfway through this challenge when Keith went AWOL.)
And please let me put some rampant speculation to rest. It seems that everyone now knows about the sketchbook in which Keith presents copies of the work of other fashion designers. Nina, Heidi, Michael and I all noted this when we reviewed the portfolios of the semi-finalists. Keith presented four to six sketchbooks and look-books (I can’t recall the exact number), and we assumed that this particular book was for inspiration. Fashion Designers have a responsibility to look at the design work around them. Many make notes or illustrations of the work that appeals to them. It’s not at all unusual. So, for us, that sketchbook was and continues to be a non-issue.
Designer: Team Keith
Keith (kicked off show), Alison, Jeffrey
Designer: Team Bonnie
Bonnie (OUT), Uli, Bradley
Designer: Team Robert
Robert, Kayne, Vincent
